Why skin tone changes the picture

It comes down to how melanin interacts with light. 

Most LED devices use red (620–660 nm) and near-infrared (800–1000 nm) wavelengths, which are absorbed by different chromophores in the skin at different depths. Research into light and pigmentation has explored several mechanisms - effects on oxidative stress, cell turnover, and the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. 

Melanin is one of the chromophores, along with blood and water, that absorbs red light - and how much of it sits in the upper layers of your skin makes a real difference to which wavelength suits you. 

Fair to medium skin tones (Fitzpatrick I–III)

In fair to medium skin tones (Fitzpatrick I–III), pigmentation such as melasma tends to sit largely in the epidermis, the skin's surface layer, and melanin is widely dispersed rather than concentrated. Red light penetrates roughly 2–3 mm, which reaches that depth comfortably. This is why studies looking at red light and the appearance of pigmentation in fair skin have generally been encouraging, and why red on its own is often all that's needed. Near-infrared travels deeper than surface-level tone requires and may, in fact, be best avoided to mitigate any warming of the skin tissue.

Deeper skin tones (Fitzpatrick IV–VI)

In darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick IV–VI), eumelanin is highly concentrated in the upper layers, and pigmentation, including melasma, can sit deeper extending in to the dermis. Red light is a short wavelength which targets the epidermis. Red light can potentially deliver too much light energy to melanin-rich skin, triggering melanocytes that sit at the surface of the skin, exacerbating melasma and pigmentation. Near-infrared [NIR], on the other hand, is a longer wavelength, which by-passes the melanin-rich epidermis, travelling to the deeper layers - where it is absorbed largely by water rather than melanin – making it a more suitable choice for melanin-rich skin. NIR therefore works from the inside out, targeting melasma in the deeper layers to effect positive changes to skin pigmentation.

Red and near-infrared, side by side

Two wavelengths, two different depths, two different targets in the skin. 

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    Red light · 620–660 nm

    Superficial and surface-focused

    Penetrates roughly 2–3 mm, reaching the epidermis. Absorbed mainly by chromophores including haemoglobin and melanin. Widely used for the appearance of surface-level pigmentation concerns, where pigment is shallow.

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    Near-infrared · 800–1000 nm

    Deeper and melanin-sparing

    Penetrates further - studies place it at roughly 1.5 to 2 times the depth of red, into the lower dermis and the subcutaneous tissue below. Absorbed largely by water rather than melanin, so more of it travels past the pigment-dense epidermis and targets pigmentation in deeper layers.

Finding the setting that suits you

Start with one question: is your skin prone to pigmentation? If it isn't, the standard protocol applies whatever your skin tone. If it is, your Fitzpatrick type points to the wavelength for you.

The Fitzpatrick skin type scale: six swatches from very fair to deepest brown, grouped into Fitzpatrick I-III (fair to medium) and IV-VI (deeper tones), each labelled with how that skin type responds to sun exposure.
What we mean by "prone"

You have melasma, or you tend to notice dark marks lingering after spots, irritation, injury or sun exposure. If that doesn't sound like your skin, we'd recommend you follow the standard protocol for your device.

A general guide to LED wavelength selection, based on published research.
Your skin Wavelength to use Why
Not prone to pigmentation Any skin tone Wavelength to use Red and near-infraredthe standard protocol Why With no tendency towards pigmentation, there's no reason to restrict your wavelengths. Using both gives you red light at the surface and near-infrared in the deeper layers, which is the combination most often used for overall skin rejuvenation.
Prone, fair to medium Fitzpatrick I–III Wavelength to use Red on its own620–660 nm Why Pigmentation here tends to sit near the surface, which is exactly where red light works. Melasma tends to be more dispersed, with less concentrated melanin, allowing red light to effectively target melanocytes. Near-infrared may raise skin tissue temperature slightly and may be best avoided.
Prone, deeper tones Fitzpatrick IV–VI Wavelength to use Near-infrared on its own800–1000 nm Why Eumelanin in highly concentrated and sits in the upper layers (epidermis). Red light is absorbed by melanin and potentially delivers too much light energy to the skin surface, triggering melanocytes and exacerbating melasma. Near-infrared bypasses the melanin-rich epidermis, with less absorption, effectively reaching the dermis where it targets melasma in the deeper layers.

Dosing

Regardless of skin tone and skin issues, we always recommend you start low and slow. Dosing of around 2-10 Joules is widely recognised an the ‘optimal dosing window’ for superficial tissue, with a treatment frequency of 3 – 5 times per week.

Pulsed light: the setting that matters most

Most LED devices emit light continuously. Pulsed LED delivers the same light in rapid bursts instead, with brief pauses in between. 

Melanin absorbs light near the surface, which limits how much energy reaches the deeper layers and creates gentle warmth in the upper ones. Whist Near infrared is absorbed mostly by tissue water in the deeper layers, also raising cellular temperature. Warmth matters because melanocytes can respond to it. Pulsing addresses both halves of that at once, mitigating a rise in skin temperature regardless of skin tone. 

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    1. The skin cools between pulses

    Each pause gives the surface a moment to return to baseline rather than accumulating warmth over a session. This is the main reason pulsing is favoured for melanin-rich skin, where the risk of heat-related pigment responses is highest.

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    2. More light travels deeper

    Brondon and colleagues shone light through a melanin filter onto cells and found pulsed delivery outperformed continuous, concluding pulsing may mitigate the filtering effect of cutaneous melanin.

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    3. Cells do more with it

    Pulsed delivery has been studied for its effect on cellular energy production and collagen, and for accelerating cell turnover - the process by which pigmented cells are gradually replaced by newer ones.

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What the research shows

Barolet and colleagues ran a split-face trial using pulsed light at 940 nm (90 mW/cm², 13.5 J/cm²) combined with microdermabrasion. It showed significant improvement in the appearance of facial melasma - in participants who had not responded to treatments they had already tried.

Getting the frequency right

The range explored in the literature is 10–100 Hz - bursts per second. Lower frequencies like 10 Hz leave longer gaps between pulses, so the skin has more time to cool. That makes them the more considered choice for Fitzpatrick IV–VI skin, where the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is highest. 

Worth knowing when you're comparing devices: Maysama's LED masks pulse at a fixed 100 Hz, the top of that range. The Pulse40 LED Panel lets you select 10, 20 or 30 Hz - so if the longer cooling intervals are what you're after, the panel could be the best option for you. 

Devices that give you the choice

All Maysama devices let you select red or near-infrared independently and offer a pulsed mode - so you can tailor your sessions to your own skin.

From our customers

Before and after photos, shared by customers using Maysama LED devices. Drag the slider.

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Individual results may vary

BLOG: Using Red Light Therapy for Melasma

Our complete blog goes further into melanin structure across the Fitzpatrick scale, how LED and melanogenesis interact, a customer's experience and the full detail behind each recommendation.

READ THE FULL BLOG

The research behind this guide

Research into light and pigmentation is still developing. Some of the studies below are small, laboratory-based or conducted in animal models, so findings shouldn't be read as guaranteed outcomes for any individual.

View the studies referenced

  1. Dai et al. — a small clinical trial using amber LED (590 nm), reporting reduced neovascularisation and melanocyte recycling.
  2. Oh et al. — animal model study: 660 nm LEDs inhibited tyrosinase activity.
  3. Schroeder et al. (2009) — red light and pigmentation in fair skin.
  4. Goldberg — near-infrared light in darker skin tones.
  5. Alexiades-Armenakas (2006) — comparison of near-infrared and red light for pigmentation in darker skin tones.
  6. Whelan et al. — NASA LED research; mild warming observed in water-rich tissue at 800–880 nm.
  7. Barolet et al. — split-face trial of pulsed 940 nm near-infrared with microdermabrasion.
  8. Rodrigues et al., Lasers in Medical Science (2023) — in vivo comparison of 660 nm and 830 nm transmission through human skin across Fitzpatrick phototypes; transmission decreased as melanin index increased, and 830 nm transmitted more readily than 660 nm.
  9. Finlayson et al., Photochemistry and Photobiology (2022) — Monte Carlo modelling of light penetration depth into skin from 200 to 1000 nm.

These studies investigated a range of devices, wavelengths and settings, and were not conducted on Maysama products.

Please note: this article is intended as general information about LED light therapy and skincare, and is not medical advice. Melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation are skin conditions with many contributing factors, including hormones, medication and sun exposure. If you are concerned about changes to your skin, or your pigmentation is persistent or worsening, please speak to your GP, pharmacist or a dermatologist.

Maysama LED devices are cosmetic beauty devices intended to support the appearance of the skin. They are not intended to diagnose, treat or cure any medical condition. Individual results vary. Always read the instructions supplied with your device before use.